A unique variation of the traditional East African coconut fish curry known as “mallaay qumbe” has been introduced by cookbook author Ifrah F. Ahmed, described as a distinctly Somali dish. The recipe, featured in her latest cookbook “Soomaaliya,” incorporates “xawaash,” a vital spice blend in Somali cuisine.
Ahmed advocates for preparing the fragrant spice mix from scratch to enhance the flavors of this straightforward, one-pot curry. She also mentions the option to purchase the premade blend, emphasizing the importance of sourcing it from Somali companies or grocery stores.
Despite Somalia’s extensive coastline, seafood was historically not a prominent part of the Somali diet, with red meat being the preferred protein source in most regions. Efforts to promote seafood consumption, including establishing “meat-free” days and supporting fishing cooperatives, were made in the past but did not yield significant results. However, there is now a growing interest in seafood consumption in Somalia.
“Mallaay qumbe” is a common dish along the East African coast, particularly in southern Somalia’s coastal towns. This Somali version stands out due to the inclusion of xawaash and creamy coconut milk. It is typically served with rice or soor.
The ingredients for preparing “Mallaay Qumbe” include fine sea salt, barramundi or another firm white fish, olive oil, red onion, Roma tomatoes, garlic, unsweetened coconut milk, cilantro, xawaash, and steamed white rice. The preparation involves seasoning the fish, sautéing onion and tomatoes, adding garlic, coconut milk, cilantro, xawaash, and salt, then cooking the fish until tender. The dish is served with rice and garnished with cilantro.
Xawaash, described as the heart of Somali cuisine, is a spice mix that encapsulates Somalia’s rich history of global trade. The blend typically consists of cumin, coriander, black pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and turmeric, toasted and ground into a fragrant powder. Xawaash can be stored in an airtight container and is best used fresh. The recipe includes toasting the spices, grinding them into a powder, mixing in turmeric, and storing the blend for future use.
Both the “Mallaay Qumbe” recipe and the Xawaash spice mix are adapted from Ifrah F. Ahmed’s book “Soomaaliya: Food, Memory and Migration.” The cookbook showcases the cultural significance of Somali cuisine and its connection to history and migration.