Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, holds a special place in my heart as a time filled with hope and anticipation for a sweet and prosperous year ahead. The holiday customs, including indulging in round golden challah with raisins, dipping apples in honey, and sprinkling pomegranate arils on dishes, symbolize wishes for sweetness and abundance in the upcoming year.
My personal connection to the holiday traces back to my childhood when I first experienced Jewish cuisine through the delightful combination of apples and honey shared by a friend in Grade 1. This simple yet meaningful tradition left a lasting impression on me, becoming a significant part of my journey towards embracing Judaism.
As I prepare for the holiday festivities, I look forward to incorporating local apples, honey, round challah, pickled salmon from my Auntie Elaine, and a delectable apple cake recipe from the renowned Jewish Canadian cookbook “Second Helpings, Please!” into my holiday spread. Additionally, I plan to introduce new twists to traditional recipes, such as a refreshing salad featuring apples on a bed of labneh topped with honey, sizzled herbs, pecans, and flaky salt.
To explore how Rosh Hashanah is celebrated in various Canadian households, I engaged in conversations with five esteemed figures in the Jewish culinary scene from Calgary, Toronto, and Montreal. These chefs, restaurant owners, and cookbook authors shared insights on their go-to holiday dishes and how they infuse family traditions with their own creative touches.
Micah Siva, the talented author of the award-winning cookbook “Nosh: Plant-Forward Recipes Celebrating Modern Jewish Cuisine,” reminisces about her upbringing in Calgary, where holiday preparations involved making kreplach with her mother and maternal grandmother. Despite transitioning to a vegetarian diet at a young age, Siva continues to honor her family’s culinary heritage by reimagining traditional dishes like kreplach, now filled with potatoes instead of meat.
Chef Shauna Godfrey, hailing from Toronto and owning Maven and Rose’s Pantry, cherishes memories of her Bubbe Rose through the nostalgic flavors of honey cake, a cherished dessert passed down through generations. For Godfrey, preserving family traditions, especially through culinary creations like honey cake, holds profound significance, connecting her to cherished memories of her beloved bubbe.
Jake Greenberg, co-owner of Chez Greenberg in Montreal, fondly recalls the abundant Rosh Hashanah feasts of his childhood, characterized by a vast array of appetizers, matzah ball soup, and elaborate main courses prepared by his exceptional mother. This year, Greenberg plans to extend his holiday table to include his restaurant staff, aiming to share the rich cultural heritage behind Jewish cuisine with his team.
Lev Levine, the proprietor of Lox and Schmear in Toronto, reflects on the elaborate Rosh Hashanah preparations orchestrated by their parents, with particular emphasis on their father’s renowned gefilte fish. At Lox and Schmear, Levine puts a modern spin on tradition by crafting salmon gefilte fish, embracing their focus on salmon-based offerings while upholding the essence of Jewish culinary customs.
Sam Davis, the visionary behind Primrose Bagel Company in Toronto, draws inspiration from his bubbe and aunt, who were culinary wizards renowned for their heartfelt meals. Davis’s family gatherings have evolved to include a blend of Ashkenazi and Sephardic culinary traditions, reflecting the diverse tapestry of Jewish cuisine. As the torchbearer of his family’s culinary legacy, Davis takes pride in preserving traditional dishes like potato kugel, embodying the role of a family food archivist.
Rosh Hashanah serves as a poignant time for reflection, celebration, and culinary exploration, uniting families and communities in a shared tapestry of tradition, innovation, and love.